Better Cotton Chain of Custody (CoC)

What is the Better Cotton Chain of Custody (CoC) Standard?

The Better Cotton Chain of Custody (CoC) Standard is a global framework that ensures Better Cotton (formerly known as BCI cotton) grown with sustainable practices at the farm level is reliably and transparently tracked throughout the entire textile supply chain—from ginners and spinners to fabric mills, garment manufacturers, and end retailers/brands.

The primary objective of the standard is to connect the supply of sustainable cotton produced in line with the Better Cotton Principles and Criteria with global market demand, verifying the volume and traceability claims of supply chain actors through independent audit mechanisms.

Key Technical Criteria of Better Cotton CoC Certification

To cater to the operational structures of businesses and buyer transparency expectations, the Better Cotton CoC Standard offers four distinct Chain of Custody models alongside a digital tracking infrastructure:

1. Chain of Custody Models (CoC Supply Chain Models)

• Mass Balance (MB): A volume-based tracking model that permits the physical mixing or substitution of Better Cotton with conventional cotton within a production facility. While physical fibers blend, a mass balance calculation rule is strictly applied on the digital system; a business cannot sell more Better Cotton (as BCCU credits or volume) than it has sourced.

• Segregation (Single Country): A physical traceability model where physical Better Cotton is kept completely separate from conventional cotton and Better Cotton sourced from other countries, throughout all processing stages from the farm level onwards.

• Segregation (Multi-Country): Similar to the single-country model, physical Better Cotton is prevented from mixing with conventional cotton; however, blending Better Cotton originating from multiple approved production countries is permitted.

• Controlled Blending: Applicable from the spinning stage onward, this model involves physically blending Better Cotton with conventional cotton in specific, trackable, and verifiable proportions.

2. Better Cotton Platform (BCP) and Digital Tracking

• All purchasing, selling, stock reconciliation, and physical/mass balance transfers across the supply chain are recorded and managed via a centralized database called the Better Cotton Platform (BCP).

• BCP registration and timely data entry are mandatory for all businesses operating under the standard.

3. Facility Management and Traceability Systems

• A company's inventory management, invoicing, dispatch records, and BCP data must be 100% reconciled and aligned.

• Facilities must implement clear standard operating procedures (SOPs) and employ trained personnel to accurately classify cotton input and output types.

Scope and Verification Details

Who is it for?

The Better Cotton CoC Standard is designed for all supply chain actors purchasing, processing, storing, or selling physical cotton or cotton-rich products under a Better Cotton claim (ginners, traders, spinners, weavers, knitters, finishers, garment manufacturers, and retailers/brands).

What is Verified?

• Alignment between digital transfers recorded on the BCP and physical shipping documents (invoices, delivery notes, weighbridge tickets, etc.).

• Inventory tracking and volume reconciliation compliant with the chosen CoC model (Mass Balance, Segregation, or Controlled Blending).

• Management system requirements, staff training, and subcontractor/outsource management at certified facilities.

What is Not Covered?

• Organic cotton claims: Better Cotton is not an organic farming certificate (for organic claims, GOTS or OCS standards must be used).

• Facility-level chemical and environmental audits: The standard focuses on agricultural sustainability principles and supply chain cotton flow traceability (it does not impose factory-level chemical/wastewater restrictions like GOTS or GRS).

• Farm animal welfare standards.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Does Better Cotton replace organic cotton standards (GOTS/OCS)?

No. Better Cotton is a farm-level sustainability program focusing on environmental, social, and economic practices, but it does not mandate organic farming rules (such as prohibiting synthetic pesticides/fertilizers, with the exception of GMO bans). A product holding Better Cotton claims cannot be marketed as "organic."

What is the main difference between Mass Balance and Physical Traceability?

Under the Mass Balance model, physical Better Cotton is allowed to mix with conventional cotton in the facility, and traceability is governed digitally through credit/volume accounting. Under Physical Traceability models (Segregation and Controlled Blending), Better Cotton is processed on physically separated lines or blended in strictly controlled percentages.

Can a company trade Better Cotton without a Better Cotton Platform (BCP) account?

No. The BCP is the core backbone of the Better Cotton supply chain. Shipments that lack a BCP account or are not approved via the platform cannot be accepted or passed on as Better Cotton.

How are consumer-facing claims and logos applied to Better Cotton products?

Claims must comply with the Better Cotton Claims Framework. For Mass Balance products, brand-level support claims (e.g., "By buying this product, you are supporting Better Cotton") are typically used. For Physical Traceability models, specific product-level content claims can be made according to standard rules.

Audit Preparation & Tips

What to Prepare Before the Audit

• BCP account registration records and transaction history (purchases/sales).

• Invoices, delivery notes, and corresponding BCP Transaction Numbers for incoming Better Cotton batches.

• Mass balance or physical stock reconciliation reports comparing raw material inputs with finished product outputs.

• Process flowcharts and physical segregation procedures corresponding to the specific CoC model used (MB, Segregation, Controlled Blending).

• A list and contracts of external warehouses or subcontractors providing processing services.

Common Audit Findings (Non-Conformities)

• Discrepancies between BCP digital transaction dates/quantities and physical invoice/delivery note records.

• A negative Better Cotton inventory balance in Mass Balance accounting (selling more Better Cotton than purchased).

• Risk of contamination with conventional cotton on production lines declared as physically segregated.

• Failure to include subcontracted or external facility locations within the Better Cotton CoC scope.

• Lack of adequate staff training regarding CoC models and BCP platform administration.